Hoa Lu - Vietnam Old citadel
Distance: 14km from Ninh Binh town

Hoa Lu is the ancient capital of the Dinh and Le dynasties which dates back to the 11th century. Serene and tranquil, Hoa Lu is set in beautiful surroundings beside to Truong Yen village and is easily visited on a day trip from Ninh Binh, or if you are in a rush you can combine it with a trip to Tam Coc and Bich Dong. In that case you can cycle from Hoa Lu to Truong Yen and on to Tam Coc through very scenic countryside on narrow roads, about 17km in all, a highlight all by itself!

Hoa Lu is very beautiful, but not because of the salvaged buildings, but rather because of its setting. The old city was spread out over 200 hectares, and situated 14km northwest of Ninh Binh. On arrival, the first thing you will come across on the right, just after the last houses of the Truong Yen Village, is a walled temple. At the entrance there is a tourist map detailing the area and other sites to see. Farther down the road, you can organize a trip in a row boat, and venture up the Hoang Long River.

All that remains of the original palaces and temples are some obscure ruins and some temples which have been built on some of the old sites. Those still standing include the Dinh Tien Huang, the royal temple which houses a statue of Emperor Dinh Bo Linh and his sons as well as the royal temple of the early Le Dynasty.

A boat trip takes about two hours and returns by the same route. You will get a chance to stop and walk up to a small temple in a cave, on the side of a mountain, which has great views. You will also pass small farms and houses, and float through a tunnel with a Chinese written sign chiseled into the rock face. Hoa Lu makes for a very pleasant day trip from Ninh Binh.

How to get there:

From Hanoi, you can take a 2 and a half hour by car, van through the countryside landscapes or by open bus which depart everyday at 19:00. For more fun, you can join in group for a day trip to Hoa Lu and Tam Coc. Click here for details of the trip: http://keytovietnam.com/tour/Vietnamtours/Vietnamexcursions/47_KTV47:__Hoa_Lu_-_Tam_Coc_1day/

Another way, you can catch a train from Hanoi to Ninh Binh and take only fifteen minutes to reach by motorbike.

Bich Dong and Tam Coc - Ha Long Bay on the land

The area surrounding Tam Coc and Bich Dong is characterized by stony outcrops not unlike those at Ha Long Bay, though a bit smaller in size and of course without the water. If you're there at the right time of the year, when the paddies are full of water, the reflections make Bich Dong, in particular, almost as beautiful as Ha Long Bay.

At Bich Dong there's a series of pagodas and a fascinating collection of caves farther up the outcrop. Some of these caves were used by the Viet Minh to hide from the French during the First Indochina War. The caves are full of stalactites that have been carved into Buddhist images, as well as stalactites that are hollow upon which tunes can be played.

You can climb all the way to the top of the outcrop, from where there are fantastic views. The rice paddies all reflect the surrounding peaks giving the effect of an emerald mirror.

At Tam Coc the scenery is very similar to Bich Dong but you can observe it from a small boat that one of the locals will paddle you around in. This is quite a tourist scene so expect to have to bargain hard to get a decent price. During the boat ride you will have the opportunity to visit Thai Vi Temple and a series of caves as you drift along a shallow river densely packed with reeds and birdlife.

How to get there: To get to Bich Dong and Tam Coc from the railway station at Ninh Binh, you go up to the main road (Le Dai Hanh St), turn left and follow it to the main four way intersection. Go straight through the intersection and continue for about 4km where you then take a right turn. You continue along this minor road for another 4km and you will come to where the boats leave at Tam Coc. About another kilometer along the same road you will reach the toll gate for Bich Dong. All up it is about a twenty minute ride, and if you become lost, just ask a local as they all know where the sites are. It is also possible to travel between Bich Dong and Hoa Lu by boat.

Phat Diem Cathedral - The Catholic's landing point
29km east of Ninh Binh

Located about 29km south east of Ninh Binh in Kim Son district and only a few km away from the Gulf of Tonkin, Phat Diem is of historical importance and a real hit with Vietnamese tourists.

It is in this area that the French and Portuguese missionaries first introduced Catholicism to Vietnam. While most Christians fled south, settling between Dalat and Saigon after the communists seized power in 1954, today they're returning and many newly erected churches can be seen on the way to Phat Diem.

The Phat Diem Cathedral (Nha Tho Phat Diem) was built between 1875 and 1899 and in considered to be a fine example of Sino Vietnamese architecture. The main building is 74m long, 21m wide and 11m high. The six rows of huge ironwood pillars and the carved stone entrance and altar are very impressive, and the whole complex has a peaceful, solemn feel to it. Try to be there at 10:00 for mass. Other mass hours are at 06:00 and 16:00.

How to get there: To reach Phat Diem from Ninh Binh, take a taxi or motorbike, and turn left opposite the main post office building. From there on it is pretty straightforward and well signposted. The last 10km are very scenic thru a polder-like landscape with lots of rice fields surrounded by numerous canals and many churches towering above the small villages.

Cuc Phuong National Park - Wildlife and caves

Cuc Phuong National Park was established in 1962 and consists of over 200km of tropical forest and many grottoes. This reserve is rich in wildlife and natural beauty although it has suffered at the hand of logging companies. It also possesses historical significance as prehistoric tools were discovered in 1974 in two of the park's grottoes, Hang Dang and Con Mong, and ancient tombs were discovered in another grottoes, Nguoi Xua. This cave is reached by a long staircase and contains many stalactites in bizarre shapes. Some of the other caves are inhabited by thousands of bats.

While there is no guarantee you will see many animals during your visit, the Park offers some stunning walks and the serenity of the places makes a welcome change from busy Vietnamese cities. You're required to hire a guide before entering the park, so you may opt to take one from Ninh Binh -- no doubt your guesthouse or hotel will able to recommend one. once there, be sure to pick up a copy of their newly issued and very informative Visitor's Guide.

If you're planning on doing the park in a day trip, drive to the Park's center (a 20km beautiful drive from the Park's entrance) and walk the 8km loop trail that leads you to the 1000 year old tree. Beware of leeches during raining season. Alternatively if you've got more time, you can spend the night in one of several areas. There are several bungalows, stilt houses and even home-stays in a Muong village to choose from. There's lots of scenic trails, a Visitor's Center and an Endangered Primate Rescue Center (EPRC) with about 130 monkeys near the Park's entrance.

If you have time on the way back to Ninh Binh, you can stop at the Kenh Ga floating village or the Van Long nature reserve, both are located a few kms before Highway 1. Van Long nature reserve offers the same scenery as in Tam Coc with Cuc Phuong's animals thrown in, and the boat trips are much less touristy than in Tam Coc or Bich Dong.

It is possible to visit the park as a very long day trip from Ninh Binh but you will spend most of the day traveling. You can arrange a car from one of Ninh Binh's hotels, or better still a motorbike, and do it on your own. To get there, it is about a three hour ride. The first part of the road branching off Highway 1 has been upgraded, but some stretches are still in appalling condition. Take a good map from the Thuy Anh Hotel, since the way to the park is not very well indicated.